The Bazaars

This week was all about the bazaars. 
We regularly cross the Galata bridge, which spans the Bosphorous river and connects the 2 parts of the European side of Istanbul. The Galata bridge is a busy, multi-purposed artery in Istanbul. Hundreds of fisherman stand shoulder-to-shoulder; regardless of weather and wait for nibbles on their lines.  Pomegranate juice salesman, cars & a tram all compete for space, trying to get to their destination.
The breeze is cold but the view is incredible. Under the Galata bridge there are many restaurants that sell fish locally caught, and many other delicious dishes.  Diners observe the rickety ferries used by the locals for their daily commute.
The Grand Bazaar is the world's oldest covered market, and the range of items available in it is truly astounding.  Of course you see tea sets, carpets and Chinese-made belly-dancing outfits (along with "I heart Turkey" shirts), but the items the caught our eyes were the ones made by the local artisans who inhabit the neighborhoods we passed through to get to the Bazaar.  Hanging lights with hundreds of inlaid glass pieces, tea spoons with real gem stones and hand-painted porcelain were the real stars.  We walked for hours through the bazaar and enjoyed the best lentil soup we've had on our journey; along with some pretty wicked bulgur, vibrant red from the fresh-crushed pepper that gives it its robust smoky flavor.
On the subject of spices, we made it to the Spice Bazaar as well this week.  At the ripe young age of 353 years old, it doesn't look a day over 200.  The arched walkways and storefronts are surprisingly intact and functional.  And the age-old hard-sell negotiating techniques of the vendors have clearly been fine-tuned over the centuries. The tourists are the target, and no one walks by a vendor without hearing "yes, hello, where you are from??".  Spices piled sky high in all different colors make for a dizzying experience.  People in each shop are either negotiating prices or getting ripped off. And samples are handed out in order to hook a naive tourist and make a sale. This was one of the coolest experiences we have had on this trip.
We made a quick stop at the Basillica Cisterns, built by the Romans; it is a (very over-embellished) water storage facility.  Eerie lighting and colorless coi fish make for a pretty memorable visit.  There's a mysterious pair of blocks which to this day defy explanation.  On them are carved the faces of Medusa, said to guard the Cistern from evildoers.  Strangely, one of the heads lays on its side, while the other is upside down.  Perhaps they were too heavy to move?
We also got to visit a few Mosques while here.  Entry is a simple matter; remove shoes, keep quiet, cover your head if you're a woman and you're in!  Our favorite was the Blue Mosque, with a massive dome and very impressive tile work.  The New Mosque was equally impressive in size, but our visit was cut short by the noon-time call to prayer, when hundreds of hasty Muslims hurry in to secure an indoor space for their daily prayer.
Here are some pictures of the past week or so. We are on our last week in Istanbul, and although we have been slacking off with our blog posts, we still have a few more pictures we want to show you! Enjoy!

  

 

Turkey (not the bird)

We have reached the last leg of our trip! It has been a long 3 months and we have seen it all! Istanbul has been such an adventure for us. The locals don't speak much english, so we pay using our fingers to count and point at things when we want to purchase. The city is cosmopolitan meets old city. The buildings, streets and mosques have all aged pretty well, but there are plenty of new modern shops and restaurants that are seen throughout the neighborhoods.
The apartment we are renting has an incredible view of the Golden Horn, which is an area of the Bosphorus surrounded by many buildings on large hills.
From our window we have counted over a dozen mosques, which are very popular here in Turkey (duh).
The culture of this city is something else. Men gathered outside sipping tea and smoking cigarettes at all hours of the day, people yell to each other down the street, cars honk while driving over sidewalks (they are not very big to begin with), and the most interesting of all is the call of prayer which happens about 3-4 times a day.
The call of prayer is heard across the entire city, and the religious faithful rush to one of the many mosques to pray.
Our first week we decided to jump right into the culture and experience as much as we could.
That means drinking lots of tea and pomegranate juice (sold on the streets for 1 Turkish Lyra $.50), eating Turkish bagels (Simit) sold in tiny little carts on the street, and trying Turkish pasta which is topped with various herbs and a dollop of yogurt.
The main street here, Istiklal, is lined with shops, coffee shops and restaurants. So many lights, people, and things to see on this street. Vendors selling overpriced chestnuts (They tasted better in Italy) and people singing, playing music or even belly dancing.
We walked this street a few times, and no matter the time of day, it is packed with people, so we have been trying our best to avoid it.
We have started to become familiar with the streets and neighborhoods around Istanbul and even have a few favorite spots we like to eat and have coffee. We also stumbled on a stairway that was painted in a rainbow pattern. Most people passing by snap a photo, or at the bare minimum, smile. Apparently these stairs were first painted by a retired engineer, Huseyin Cetinel. The stairs carry a great story of public triumph over government regulation; as they were first painted over by the city, and re-done again by folks in the neighborhood.
We are excited to visit the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Market and various tourist attractions here in Istanbul.