This is goodbye

So our sabbatical has come to a close.  We set out to conquer Europe, and in our opinions, we did just that.  With a Turkish and Icelandic kicker. 

The myriad of things we've seen and done can't be described in words, so we've included some photos to highlight our last weeks in Istanbul.  Things like kumpir - a HUGE baked potato with cous cous, black olives, cheese, butter, onions, corn and peas on it hang in our sub-conscience. While fodder from farmer's markets stocked with homemade olives, cheese and multi-colored eggs allowed us to make a brunch that we won't soon forget.  Our walk across the Bosphorous (bridge) was a lucky opportunity; since the bridge is open to pedestrians but one day a year for the Istanbul marathon.  (the only marathon spanning two continents).  

Dozens of sunsets and vibrant red flags dot our iPhoto collection, each inspiring thoughts of a certain part of town, a mosque or a bazaar.  

Photos of meals we've had and alley cats we've befriended all play their part in reminding us that this trip had a innumerable ups, downs and challenges.  And just like the chips in a thousand-year-old mosaic, they gave us "character".  

Back in the USA now, we're reflecting on how spoiled we are and how much we're enjoying unlimited wifi.  Laundry is done much quicker now, thanks to a a device called a dryer.

Thank you guys for following us on our trip, we had a blast.

Excited to be back in San Diego!

The Bazaars

This week was all about the bazaars. 
We regularly cross the Galata bridge, which spans the Bosphorous river and connects the 2 parts of the European side of Istanbul. The Galata bridge is a busy, multi-purposed artery in Istanbul. Hundreds of fisherman stand shoulder-to-shoulder; regardless of weather and wait for nibbles on their lines.  Pomegranate juice salesman, cars & a tram all compete for space, trying to get to their destination.
The breeze is cold but the view is incredible. Under the Galata bridge there are many restaurants that sell fish locally caught, and many other delicious dishes.  Diners observe the rickety ferries used by the locals for their daily commute.
The Grand Bazaar is the world's oldest covered market, and the range of items available in it is truly astounding.  Of course you see tea sets, carpets and Chinese-made belly-dancing outfits (along with "I heart Turkey" shirts), but the items the caught our eyes were the ones made by the local artisans who inhabit the neighborhoods we passed through to get to the Bazaar.  Hanging lights with hundreds of inlaid glass pieces, tea spoons with real gem stones and hand-painted porcelain were the real stars.  We walked for hours through the bazaar and enjoyed the best lentil soup we've had on our journey; along with some pretty wicked bulgur, vibrant red from the fresh-crushed pepper that gives it its robust smoky flavor.
On the subject of spices, we made it to the Spice Bazaar as well this week.  At the ripe young age of 353 years old, it doesn't look a day over 200.  The arched walkways and storefronts are surprisingly intact and functional.  And the age-old hard-sell negotiating techniques of the vendors have clearly been fine-tuned over the centuries. The tourists are the target, and no one walks by a vendor without hearing "yes, hello, where you are from??".  Spices piled sky high in all different colors make for a dizzying experience.  People in each shop are either negotiating prices or getting ripped off. And samples are handed out in order to hook a naive tourist and make a sale. This was one of the coolest experiences we have had on this trip.
We made a quick stop at the Basillica Cisterns, built by the Romans; it is a (very over-embellished) water storage facility.  Eerie lighting and colorless coi fish make for a pretty memorable visit.  There's a mysterious pair of blocks which to this day defy explanation.  On them are carved the faces of Medusa, said to guard the Cistern from evildoers.  Strangely, one of the heads lays on its side, while the other is upside down.  Perhaps they were too heavy to move?
We also got to visit a few Mosques while here.  Entry is a simple matter; remove shoes, keep quiet, cover your head if you're a woman and you're in!  Our favorite was the Blue Mosque, with a massive dome and very impressive tile work.  The New Mosque was equally impressive in size, but our visit was cut short by the noon-time call to prayer, when hundreds of hasty Muslims hurry in to secure an indoor space for their daily prayer.
Here are some pictures of the past week or so. We are on our last week in Istanbul, and although we have been slacking off with our blog posts, we still have a few more pictures we want to show you! Enjoy!